Investigating the lighting of Kagurazaka known for its charming blend of Japanese and European cultures, reflected in its history, culture, and dishes.
2024.11.18 Amane Kotani + Akira Tawarada + Noriko Higashi
Our final city walk of 2024 took us to Tokyo’s Kagurazaka. This popular area is lined with small alleys filled with trendy cafes, restaurants, and izakayas. Tucked away behind the distinctive cobblestone streets are high-end ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurants) and French restaurants without signs, creating a hidden gem atmosphere. It’s a perfect neighborhood for strolling, but what about its lighting? We divided into two groups of eight and set out to explore.
Kagurazaka is a town with a hidden charm, blending the atmosphere of Edo with French culture. The cobblestone streets are lined with historic buildings and unique shops, creating a nostalgic atmosphere. The area is particularly known for its dining options, with hidden restaurants and cafes offering delicious food and wine, making it popular with tourists. We explored the nighttime scenery of this charming town.
■ Team 1: Kagurazaka Alleyway Exploration Route
Team 1, under the theme of “Kagurazaka Alleyway Exploration Course,” started from Iidabashi Station and explored various alleys. We were deeply impressed by the entire neighborhood’s high level of interest in lighting. There was a wide variety of lighting, such as illuminating shop signs while ensuring the safety of pedestrians and installing footlights on shop walls.
As soon as we started our walk, we came across the illuminated sign of a real estate agency and multiple shop advertisements. We couldn’t help but feel a bit disheartened, thinking, “Is this the entrance to Kagurazaka?” After walking a short distance down the main street and turning into an alley on the right, we encountered a foreign-feeling staircase. We all agreed that it was a lovely alley, but our moment of appreciation was short-lived when someone pointed out that the bright streetlights were ruining the atmosphere, even though the wall-mounted lights illuminating the shops provided sufficient brightness. In Suiseki Yokocho, we discovered something amusing: a gas lamp with a live flame next to a “Beware of Fire” flag. It was a clever touch and highly praised.
In Kakurenbo Yokocho, we found a fun wine-shaped standing lamp, an impressive window that looked like a painting due to the leaking indoor light, a restaurant using neon lights as streetlights, and shops with stylishly illuminated stairs. It was a delightful alley.
After leaving the pleasant alley, we were stunned to see a blue glow on the road. It turned out to be the light from an advertising monitor. The sudden appearance of the video image in the midst of Kagurazaka’s charming atmosphere illuminated the surroundings in a dazzling way, like a vicious criminal.
As we walked along the Kamakura Kodo Road towards Akagi Shrine, we passed an apartment building with its own streetlights attached to their façade, leading to a discussion about whether this could be a model for street lighting.
Upon arriving at the shrine, we were moved by the small lights of the lanterns, impressed by the beautiful shadows, and surprised by the reflective glass of the shrine. It was an interesting walk to the very end.
Our walk through Kagurazaka was filled with constantly changing scenery, making us stop and chat frequently. Personally, I had always imagined alleys as dark and eerie places with something lurking in the depths. However, in Kagurazaka, the lighting wasn’t wasteful, overly bright kind used to attract customers to shops. Instead, the lighting was designed to ensure safety while walking and to enhance the atmosphere of the town, demonstrating the result of creative thinking. (Amane Kotani)
■ Team 2：Kagurazaka Alley & Shop Street Route
Our team explored a course that covered the bustling main street, quiet alleys, and even shrines and temples. From the eastern end of the slope (near JR Iidabashi Station) to the western end (near Tokyo Metro Tozai Line Kagurazaka Station), the main street is lined with a variety of shops, restaurants, and cafes. The warm light spilling out from these establishments gently invites passersby. However, when we looked up, we noticed some building signage that seemed to lack consideration for lighting. The fact that there were dedicated streetlight poles indicated that overhead wires and poles had been buried underground, but we questioned why both cool white and warm white lights were being used simultaneously. In a later interview with a local business association, we were told, “We aimed to create a calm atmosphere for the road while maintaining a clean impression on the sidewalk.”
Regarding the illumination of the zelkova trees, there was a wide range of opinions among the members regarding its basic necessity and color selection. In the popular alleys, we were impressed by the warm atmosphere created by the traditional-style lanterns placed on the cobblestones and the subtle use of 2000K flickering lights at the entrances of ryotei (traditional Japanese restaurants) and private homes. However, we also noticed instances of high-luminosity, high-color temperature security lights, which highlighted the challenges of overall lighting management.
It was a very good decision to extend our walk to Akagi Shrine. As soon as we passed through the torii gate, it became much darker, but the gentle lights of the lanterns and paper lanterns successfully dispelled any fear.
Kagurazaka is a charming town that I would love to visit again. (Akira Tawarada)
■Review Session
After our walk, we held a wrap-up session at a restaurant with drink and food. While enjoying our meal, we selected three photos each of lighting heroes and villains from the photos taken by one of the group members. Finally, each team presented their findings. Because Kagurazaka has such distinct characteristics, there wasn’t much disagreement, and we were able to quickly decide on our heroes and villains. With explanations from people who knew Kagurazaka well, we heard many interesting stories. Although there were some glaring streetlights, signs, and liquid crystal displays that didn’t fit the atmosphere of the town, everyone seemed to enjoy the walk through Kagurazaka, with its charming alleys that offered a different atmosphere around every corner. We will report more details at the annual gathering party on January 16th, so please join us if you’re interested! (Noriko Higashi)
